Raoul's

Well gin, the kind with a plastic screw cap, is an atrocious substance best suited for sterilizing a wound at a bachelor party in the Catskills. At Raoul’s, it also provides a fine martini. Even when made with subpar liquor, the drinks here just taste better.

Open since 1975, this classic Soho spot has what baseball scouts refer to as intangibles. The food isn’t fussy, the wines aren't trendy, and the spiral staircase leading to the bathroom is so steep that you'll check to see if your insurance card is on you. But, somehow, all of those things work in the restaurant’s favor.

Raoul’s is an eternally buzzy NYC bistro dressed up as a dime-store Louvre, with a variety of oil paintings and a taxidermied stag’s head in a rainbow wig. Up front, there’s a single row of tables. In the back, there’s a clubby dining room separated from the rest of the space by a fluorescent-lit fish tank. It’s inevitably hard to snag a reservation, but the bar is walk-in-only, and that’s the best place to sit.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

If you’re familiar with Raoul’s, there’s a good chance it’s because of the burger. Available only at the bar, it wears a full jacket of spicy peppercorns and comes topped with bitter watercress. The people here will tell you that it’s available in limited quantities—but, in our experience, that’s a bit of a bluff. If you aren't early (or charismatic) enough to snag one, don’t sweat it. Food is only a fraction of the reason why you come here, and there are plenty of other dishes to keep you occupied.

Try the steak au poivre that's just as peppery as the burger and comes blanketed in buttery sauce. Or, if you’re feeling solvent, go for the banquet-sized portion of lemony dover sole. The foie gras is another great choice, and the crab beignets are the perfect fluffy bites to pop in your mouth as you watch a bartender stir a martini with the confidence of someone who does this several hundred times a night.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Ultimately, it doesn't matter what you order. It matters that you're here, now. Raoul’s is in a golden age, but, like everything else, it won't last forever. All bands break up. All candles burn out. All parties turn into two people sitting on a couch, awkwardly. Don’t be one of those people.

You know you’re making the most of this place when you find yourself on a bar stool, roped into a conversation with a stranger who’s six vodkas deep and intent on explaining the intricacies of the Miami crypto scene while an A-list model laughs carelessly behind you. That isn’t necessarily the hallmark of a top culinary destination, but it is indicative of an essential New York City restaurant.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Burger Au Poivre

The burger at Raoul’s doesn’t want to be like any of its peers. Its patty is fully encrusted with a layer of crunchy peppercorns, with a topping of watercress, red onions, and Saint-André cheese. The flavors are outstanding, and the fries are thin and crispy. Ask for a side of au poivre sauce to dip them in.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Steak Naturel Au Poivre

Some nights, the bartender will inform you that the burger is no longer available. Is that actually the case? Or do you just not have enough IMDB credits? It’s hard to say. Either way, the steak au poivre is a nice consolation prize. It’s tender enough to cut with a fork.

Seared Foie Gras

The best starter on the menu, Raoul’s foie gras arrives charred and silky as crème brûlée. Underneath, you’ll find sweet and vinegary pickled red onions that help cut through all the fat.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Frisee Salad

After the above highlights, the menu at Raoul’s drops off a little. The food is still good, but in a way that’s reminiscent of an average French bistro. This salad, for example, is very standard, with crisp frisée and chewy caramelized lardons. If you're looking for some greens, go for it.

Steak Tartare

Considering all the great things this place does with beef, you’d think they’d excel at steak tartare. But you don’t need this. It’s pretty bland.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Dover Sole "Grenobloise"

If you own a catamaran and/or have a will that’ll be hotly contested amongst your children, by all means, order the dover sole. It tastes like lemon and brown butter, and the portion size is impressive, although the steak is a better choice (and half the price).