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7.8
LA

Pizzeria Mozza

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7.8
LA

Pizzeria Mozza

PHOTOS: Aliza Sokolow

Pizza is a tough sell in this town. Frankly, because even the good stuff isn’t all that great. NYC has a solid pizza-by-the-slice place every 10 yards, and out in Chicago, you won’t ever convince a native that their version isn’t the best in the country. Angelenos can’t even pretend that kind of culture exists here. So, we’re left with a predicament. Do we lower our standards and crown an LA pizza hierarchy for the hell of it, or do we patiently keep waiting for the places worthy of that brand of acclaim?

We’re choosing the latter.

Let us first be very clear. Pizzeria Mozza is good. The pizzas are built beautifully, most of them taste like you want them to, and you’re walking out that door satisfied. The space isn’t large by any means but it functions well and is suitable for anything from a first date to a casual business meeting, to 11 p.m. pizza with friends. Not to mention the non-pizza portion of their menu is worth your time as well. So what’s the hold up? PIZZERIA MOZZA FOR PRESIDENT!

Not so fast.

Because despite whatever your in-flight airline magazine’s “Spotlight on Los Angeles” says, Pizzeria Mozza is not the best pizza in LA. No, that award probably falls somewhere amongst Hollywood Pies, Masa of Echo Park, Sotto, Jon & Vinny’s, Bestia, or DeSano. But who cares? Out of the top ten pizzas we’ve ever had in our life, none of those are them. Simply put – Los Angeles doesn’t yet deserve to have a best pizza.

Perhaps we’re being too hard about all this but THIS IS PIZZA AFTER ALL. You deserve the truth. And the truth is that Pizzeria Mozza is not the best pizza and that’s alright. Because it’s still a pretty great restaurant, with good food, in a casual, welcoming environment. Nothing too hard to sell about that.

Food Rundown

Goat Cheese, Leeks, Scallions, Garlic, And Bacon Pizza

One of the strongest pizzas amongst an already strong lineup, this pie is a must-order. The goat cheese gives it just a hint of sweetness and bacon is, well, bacon. Everything just comes together perfectly and you’re going to get mad when your friends ask for a slice.

Bianca

When a white pizza is done right, it can be the star of the show. And at Pizzeria Mozza, it’s definitely a headliner. White pizza can only really work if you have excellent cheese and at Mozza, it shouldn’t be a shock to anyone that they do.

Fried Squash Blossoms

What has to be a the prettiest sounding name for glorified fried cheese is also just a pretty outstanding dish in its own right. Our only real beef with the dish is there never seems like there’s enough of it. Probably because it never stays on the table very long.

Fennel Sausage, Panna, Mozzarella, Red Onions, And Scallions Pizza

One would assume this would be a home run kind of pizza at a place like Pizzeria Mozza, but unfortunately compared to some of the others, it comes across a touch on the predictable side. But that fennel sausage is NO JOKE. Can we get a bowl of that? To go?

Chicken Liver Crostini

Yes. This dish works because it’s not only a nice break up of flavor in what surely will be a pizza-heavy meal, there’s just a lot of it. And we appreciate that. We also appreciate that slice of pancetta sprawled on top.

Pizza Alla Benno

Oh boy. What happened here? This speck, jalapeno, and pineapple-topped pie had all the makings of a special pizza but it completely fell apart. The pineapple overpowers everything making it disgustingly sweet, there’s seemingly no heat from the jalapenos, and the speck is an afterthought. SKIP.

Butterscotch Budino

Sweet mother of the Italian Gods, this thing is magic. And also incredibly simple. Savory from the butterscotch, sweet from the marshmallow, salty from the sea salt. And f*ck off sugar plums, those little rosemary cookies on the side are actually what dance in children’s heads at night.

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