The new Nancy Silverton restaurant inside The Hollywood Roosevelt reopened in spring of 2021 after a brief stint the previous fall, but it already feels like a place that’s been doing its thing for years. The dimly-lit dining room has strong Old Hollywood energy (it helps being located in one of the most historic hotels in the city), but not in a way that feels stale. The cocktails are strong and interesting (we particularly love the fennel-forward Barish martini), there are individually painted goats on the dinner plates, and the tight Italian menu is littered with pasta, big meat dishes, and a lot of bread. But it’s the aromatic, mustard-y steak tartare that we can’t stop thinking about. It arrives at the table deconstructed and is one of the most memorable versions we’ve had in years. Also, whatever you do though, save room for the olive oil gelato. It is a soft, silky textural fantasy, and the perfect way to end your night.
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