Life is about taking chances, like skydiving or having unprotected sex. We’re afraid of both, so a far wiser chance to take is to try eating at any of the anonymous-looking Chinese cafes close to Charing Cross road. That’s how we stumbled on Baozi Inn, which looks pretty unassuming from the outside but actually does brilliant bowls of spicy dumplings and noodles from Beijing and Sichuan. It makes for a perfect casual dinner with a few friends, especially if you’re down with amping up the spice factor.