SEAReview
Maneki
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Maneki opened in 1904. So, it’s older than pogo sticks, Brillo pads, and the Model-T. It’s also the longest-running Japanese restaurant in Seattle, let alone in the International District. Over 115 years later, it’s still packed. You’d expect the crowds to come just for the history, but they’re here for the excellent and reasonably-priced food. You’ll walk away from a meal at Maneki feeling like you should have paid more for such high-end sushi.
We highly recommend making a reservation, otherwise, you’ll likely have to wait until after 9:30pm to sit down—a handwritten note next to the host stand shows when the next table is available. The main dining room is consistently crowded, but the best way to experience Maneki is in a private tatami room in the back. After you kick your shoes off, kneel down on your personal pillow, and get the sake flowing, everything else seems to fade away. It’s just you, people you hopefully like, and this quiet room that’s closed off from the rest of the restaurant where someone periodically stops by to give you raw fish and beer.
If you’re at Maneki for just one thing, it’s for the stellar sushi. From yellowtail to tuna, the outstanding nigiri here makes it easy to understand why this restaurant is so busy. Pay close attention to the daily fish specials, which might include four different types of wild salmon, or a negitoro topped with chopped fatty bluefin tuna and scallions. The firm cuts, like albacore, are perfectly chewy, and the softer pieces, like local king salmon and chu-toro, practically disintegrate in your mouth. The sushi here is on-par with the best spots in town, only you’re paying a fraction of the price and don’t have to get dressed up—it almost feels like they forgot to raise prices somewhere between 1904 and today.
Besides sushi, the classic Japanese menu here is pretty extensive—you’ll find fried appetizers, noodles, dumplings, teriyaki, and tempura. If you’re going to order anything else besides sushi, go with some gyoza, the crispy takoyaki balls stuffed with octopus, or the salted mackerel (Saba Ichiya Boshi)—which we think is better than the much-hyped black cod collar miso.
This food is best shared among friends while drinking Sapporo in socks, just like a similar group might have done here in the early 20th century. Leave it to a restaurant that has 24 years on Penicillin. They’ve still got it, and it’s better than ever.