SEAReview

Kōbo

Redhook Brewlab has nixed their food menu and made way for Kōbo. This Japanese and Detroit-style pizza counter is helmed by the team behind Taku, the late-night karaage spot next door. You’ll find pies loaded with ingredients like braised teriyaki brisket with kewpie mayo and tonkatsu, Taku fried chicken with koji hot sauce, and sliced potato with broccoli and seaweed ranch. While we’re fans of Kōbo’s crust, which has great chew and a Pillsbury Crescent Roll-like sweetness, the toppings tend to be far too dry and unevenly scattered. There’s no need to go out of your way for this pizza, but if you end up enjoying a few frosty pints at Redhook, order some salt and pepper tater tots and the Ginny pie topped with pepperoni and garlic-infused honey—just be sure to get an extra side of ranch for dunking it all.