NYCReview
photo credit: Kate Previte
Rolo's
Included In
The lasagna at Rolo’s has béchamel and a deep bolognese made from ground beef that's butchered in-house, then sandwiched between crumpled pieces of green pasta—the top of which get charred to a hard crunch in a wood oven. It's a brilliant twist on a classic dish, and it does more with two sheets of pasta than some restaurants do with 20.
Like all the cooking at Rolo's, the lasagna is subtly inventive, with quality ingredients and fine-tuned techniques, presented simply. This Ridgewood spot, which was founded by Gramercy Tavern alums during the pandemic, makes it all look appealingly effortless. They've since opened one of our favorite bakeries, and a late-night bar around the corner—both as creative, detail-oriented, and popular as Rolo's.
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
The restaurant is consistently booked out. In the large main dining area, you'll see neighborhood regulars, in for an easy weeknight dinner. (Others continue to avoid it, citing Rolo's ties to a real-estate developer.) You’ll also see NYC bucket-listers who booked a reservation weeks ago, and are likely taking a cab back to Tribeca. People eat softly-lit plates of juicy grilled shrimp, seasonal vegetables, or mortadella, and house-aged steaks. There’s a good view of the wood grill and oven, and the music might be 90% Khruangbin, but you can’t be sure, because it’s playing at just the right level.
And then there’s the bar, which takes walk-ins and is one of the more sceney places east of the East River. If you’re planning a night of dancing in Ridgewood or Bushwick, there’s a good chance it’s starting at the Rolo’s bar. Out here, beanies are the resiliency inspiration you need, clinging on to patrons’ heads for dear life, while leaving their ears as cold as the cocktails they’re drinking.
photo credit: Kate Previte
People with Gallagher brother haircuts split creamy, crusty polenta bread, and eat one of the city’s best smashburgers while hyping themselves up for the newest underground DJ at Nowadays. The bar lighting is dimmer, the conversation is spirited, and the outfits provide enough fodder to keep you off Pinterest for a few weeks.
It might seem like this whole place just rolled out of bed and threw on a vintage tee, but that would be missing the real picture. Whether you’re at Rolo’s just to pregame, or have been planning a special occasion meal here for weeks, you’ll find unpretentious, incredibly satisfying food, held up by a sturdy backbone of technique and care.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Kate Previte
Wood-Fired Polenta Bread
photo credit: Kate Previte
Two Sheet Lasagna Verde
photo credit: Rolo's
Double Cheeseburger
photo credit: Will Hartman
Pickled Carrots
photo credit: Kate Previte
Grilled Salt & Pepper Head-On Shrimp
photo credit: Kate Previte
Pork T-bone
photo credit: Kate Previte