NYCReview
Manhatta
After a two-year break, Manhatta is back in its old location with a new chef and menu. That location—on the 60th floor of a FiDi skyscraper—is still the main draw, with the kind of panoramic views that would usually only be possible from a billionaire’s penthouse or a touristy observation deck. From up here, Manhattan, Brooklyn, and all the bridges that connect the two look like they’re made out of Legos.
The upscale New American food at this Danny Meyer restaurant doesn’t quite match the magnificence of the scenery. But if you order the right things, you’ll have an unforgettable meal that might only be surpassed by dinner on the International Space Station.
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
There are a few different ways to experience Manhatta. The bar area is huge, and the counter seating—where you can get a 10-course, $275 tasting menu—provides an entertaining front row seat to the controlled chaos in the open kitchen. But we prefer a table by the floor-to-ceiling windows in the back, where you can order à la carte. And given the views, it’s actually fine that the interior decor looks like it was put together by a firm that designs above-average conference rooms.
At first glance, the menu feels tired. There’s a crudo, a tartare, something with foie, and a $170 côte de boeuf for two. But look a little closer, and you’ll see some innovative combinations. A refreshing daikon salad has strands of squid cut to look like noodles, and slabs of barbecued eel are ingeniously paired with discs of slightly sweet bone marrow.
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
A couple of those combinations have us scratching our heads though. Peanuts don’t add much to a tête de cochon, undercooked potato cubes are confusingly mixed into lobster rice, and a chocolate sabayon seems unnecessarily dominated by passion fruit. If you notice that the menu sounds very meat-and-seafood-focused, you’re right. Consider heading elsewhere if your diet only consists of things that grow out of the ground.
Manhatta recalls other places from Danny Meyer’s restaurant empire (Union Square Cafe, for example) with similar food. But most of those places have a view of scaffolding, or at best an outdoor dining structure. At Manhatta you can drink a martini or split a bottle of Grüner Veltliner, and get incomparable views without having to buy a ticket, stand in a long line, and feel like a tourist, even though you’ve been paying outrageous rent here for over a decade.
Food Rundown
Note: Some of the dishes are seasonal, and there’s a shorter menu at the bar.
photo credit: Liz Clayman
Dry-Aged Burger
Available only at the bar, this burger is reason enough to come to Manhatta. The combination of American cheese, caramelized sweet koji onions, and shiitake mayo don’t mask the prominent, slightly funky flavor of the dry-aged beef patty. It’s $29, but filling enough to split.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Squid And Daikon Salad
The idea of soft, chewy squid intermingled with crunchy daikon in a pool of bright green cucumber vinaigrette is already a good one. But this dish gets bonus points for its unique presentation: Both the squid and daikon are cut to look like long strands of wavy noodles. Who’d say no to turning more seafood into noodles?
photo credit: Kate Previte
Scallop Crudo
Do you like roasted red peppers and chilled scallops that are so tender they have the consistency of flan? If your answer is no, you must have misunderstood the question. In other words, order the scallops.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Barbecued Freshwater Eel
Besides the burger, this is one of our favorite dishes at Manhatta. Nigiri-sized slabs of barbecued eel come with discs of bone marrow, little dollops of pomme purée, pickled onions, and meurette. Getting two orders of this is like getting that last cocktail of the night: technically unnecessary, but do it anyway.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Tête De Cochon
Based on this item’s description, you might expect a cold terrine, but this warm starter is actually a compressed brick of shredded pig head parts that’s breaded, deep-fried, and topped with a ton of maple-cured roe. You’ll happily eat this whole thing because what’s not to like about roe and fried pork? But you probably won’t remember it the next day.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Grilled Lobster
This dish is basically lobster three ways, served with charred turnips and a black garlic sauce. You’ll get perfectly-grilled tails, fried tempura-battered pieces, and little chunks of meat in rice with a sauce Américaine. It’ll satisfy a lobster craving, but it’s not an essential order.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Dry-Aged Duck
Each component of this dish (dry-aged duck breast with crispy skin, sweet celery root puree, persimmons, grilled endive, and orange-infused jus) isn’t that exciting on its own. But eat everything together, and you get a bite that’s more than the sum of its parts. That’s why this is our favorite entrée here.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Apple Tatin
Made with thick ribbons of cooked apple rolled into a spiral like a pinwheel pastry, this tatin comes with buckwheat crumbles and yuzu ice cream, and is set on fire at your table using Calvados. Think of it as the best Fruit Roll-Up you could ever have.
