NYCReview

Daniel Boulud opened his first NYC restaurant several decades ago, but these days, you might know him more for calling something “pseudo crudo” on Top Chef or cooking rooster testicles for Colbert. Le Gratin in Fidi will remind you why he became a celebrity in the first place: for cooking really good French food. Modeled after bistros in Boulud’s hometown of Lyon, this spot offers several bottles of wine under $100 to go with rarely-seen and exceptional fried escargots in a spinach-herb sauce, perfectly tender duck breast, and, of course, a gratin made with gruyère and scalloped potatoes. The room, filled with mirrored walls and flowers painted on tiles, feels romantic and casual (more like Balthazar than Daniel). It’s an ideal setting to celebrate a relationship status-related occasion without having to put on a jacket or a fancy dress.

Bill Milne

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