You know how Boston has all these historic monuments that the city takes great pride in? Things like Faneuil Hall, Paul Revere’s House, Bunker Hill, and all the bars that Mark Wahlberg has peed outside of?
For New York, I always thought of those places as restaurants. Sure, we’ve got plenty of landmarks of historical significance, but we also have The Spotted Pig and Raoul’s and Momofuku and the first ever Shake Shack. And let’s be honest - a city is only as great as the food that is in it. Anyone can build a museum.
To that end, I’d like to propose that we paint a red line on the street, just like they have in Boston, to lead you to all of our best and most significant restaurants. And I’d like for it to take you right past Cookshop.
Simply put, this restaurant has been one of our most excellent for a very long time now. We’ve been coming here for years, and it’s never been anything but delicious - not even once. The food is uncomplicated and as American as it gets, with all the menu items you’d expect to see at an American restaurant - pork chops, fish, roasted chicken, and brunch. There is no bad time to visit - even breakfast is solid here - and they also have a big outdoor space for the nine days in May and September that you can actually sit outside. Just know that it is nearly always busy, and you will wait for a table.
It’s certainly better than waiting for a museum.
Cookshop has a big wood burning oven, and when you have that kind of oven, sometimes you make pizza. Yes, this one is topped with ramps and therefore also the slightest bit of pretense, but it’s also pretty damn good. Order with confidence.
If I was a lamb, this is how I would want to go out. Various parts of me, cooked to delicious perfection, served on a slab of wood to a king. OK, if not a king, a president. No presidents eat here, do they? How about a high ranking member of parliament? A famous actor? No? Fine, someone at a restaurant in Cheslea. Someone smart enough to order me.
Roasted chicken in a restaurant is no novelty, but it’s rarely this good. There’s some smoked chili oil in the mix, which punches things up a bit. Do it if your heart so desires.
You’ll find various fish presentations on the menu at Cookshop, and our move is always to keep it simple. Nobody at the table is gonna be mad at a nice piece of fish.