For whatever reason, the idea of Jewish appetizing hasn’t evolved much over time. With the exception of Russ & Daughters finally opening a dining room, bagels, lox, eggs, and babka are generally still eaten at places that have been around for generations. And a lot of the time that place is grandma’s living room. Not anymore. Now we have Sadelle’s, and holy sh*t is it incredible.
Welcome to West Broadway Reform, Temple Of Hot Bagels. Sadelle’s is a modern day synagogue you don’t need to be Jewish to belong to, as long as you’re down to pray to the God of Smoked Salmon.
The restaurant comes from Major Food Group (the team behind Carbone, Dirty French, and Santina), and as we’ve grown accustomed to seeing, when they open a new place, they go big. It’s a production. And that’s very much the case at Sadelle’s: bagels and smoked fish are served on grand towers usually reserved for lobster and caviar. The staff wears throwback baking outfits and chant “hot bagels” in unison every time a new batch hits the pegs. The tables are set with the Laguiole cutlery and Le Creuset plates you’ve probably seen on someone’s wedding registry. And in the middle of it all is the bagel-making facility, enclosed in glass as if it were the fish tank housing the biggest, most impressive sharks at the aquarium.
Jewish appetizing in this city has certainly never been this flashy, but it’s also never been this good.
The space is huge, and split up into a sit down restaurant and a take-out bakery where you can get bagels and babka to go. Yes, the lines at the take-out area during prime time are long, but good luck finding an excellent bagel joint in NYC where you won’t have to wait 20 minutes at noon on Saturday. It comes with the territory, and it’s one of the few things New Yorkers seem totally fine with lining up for. If you’re eating in the restaurant, make a reservation, or come on a weekday.
The restaurant section offers a bigger menu, which includes everything from eggs to blintzes to turkey sandwiches to what may be the best french toast in New York City. The dishes are expensive - $17 for an egg sandwich is particularly crazy - but most of them are so good that we’re willing to deal with the inflated prices.
Barney Greengrass, for the first time in like 90 years, you’ve got some competition. Someone send him a fax to let him know.
A thick chocolate casing protecting a spongy, gooey chocolate sponge cake, Sadelle’s babka can only be described effectively using emojis ????.
It’s a small sandwich, but one that packs all kinds of heat. The house-smoked salmon is perfect, and while the bagel size has been called into question, we were impressed with the overall complexion: spongy inside, crisp shell, and an ideal level of bread moisture. Get the Everything 2.0 bagel (pictured below: sesame seeds, poppy seeds, dehydrated garlic, salt, plus fennel seeds and caraway seeds), the Salt & Pepper bagel, or the Pumpernickel Everything. There’s even a gluten-free bagel for those who get down like that.
You come to Sadelle’s, you get a tower. That’s how you do. Every tower comes with unlimited bagels, just make sure you ask them not to toast them. Interestingly, and unlike many purist bagel shops, Sadelle’s definitely likes to toast their bagels. We’re not complaining, but considering their bagels come out hot, toasting is unnecessary. Make sure your platter has whitefish salad on it. Sadelle’s’ whitefish is dreamy.
Classic Egg Sandwich
This is about as good as an egg sandwich can possibly be. Fried eggs, bacon, and muenster on toast for $17? WORTH IT. OK, maybe not, but still, this is a damn good egg sandwich.
I love french toast. A lot. Like, other than Frosted Flakes, it’s probably my most beloved childhood (and adulthood) breakfast delicacy. Well, I lost it upon first bite into this. It’s as if they took the insides of the toast out and replaced them with french toast bread pudding. The insides of the bread are a liquid, soft, oozing, eggy wonderland that needs to be introduced to your mouth immediately.
And the hits keep coming. The Sadelle’s version of scrambled eggs with onion topped with house-smoked salmon is so much better than everyone else’s, it’s simply unfair. Order it.
Satisfying cheese wraps. Get involved.
Matzoh Ball Soup
Never underestimate the power of the Carbone fellas’ balls. In this case, they’re the ones made of matzoh. Soup gets a solid B+. Grandma would be proud.
Turkey And Roast Beef Double Decker Sandwich
You’ve been to Parm, right? These guys know a thing or two about making a sandwich.
All you need to do is take one look at that messy cheese sandwich situation to know it belongs in your stomach.