We kind of wanted to hate the $29 dry-aged brisket hot dog at Mischa, a new Midtown restaurant from the guy who previously brought us $125 wagyu fajitas. Instead, we found ourselves wondering why hot dogs aren’t always served with chili and five sauces. Or why a $29 hot dog should feel wrong if a great $35 burger feels right? Besides the soignée hot dog, Mischa seems destined for power spot status, with big velvet booths, a sprawling bar, and bathrooms the size of small studio apartments—with one major difference: It’s actually fun. A surprisingly playful menu includes XL tater tots, a deviled egg presented in the style of an île flottante, and desserts, like a sunflower-shaped buckwheat honey cake, that are worth coming back for.
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