On a street loaded with KBBQ, Baekjeong—which started opening locations in California in 2012—stands out as the most consistently good option for tabletop grilled meats. Apparently, the rest of the city agrees, because wait times at this Koreatown restaurant can be horrendous. Either make a prepaid reservation (available for parties of six or more), or arrive early and find somewhere to hang until you’re seated. Every table is outfitted with a tubular stainless steel vent that looks like a slightly intimidating probe, and you should expect loud music and a mostly-drunk crowd. All of the meat options are fantastic, and everything else—from the pork mandoo and seafood pancake to the egg custard and cheesy corn—is just as great.