NYCReview
photo credit: Heather Willensky
Colonia Verde
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Colonia Verde has a lot going for it. It’s probably the most fun restaurant in Fort Greene, it serves transcendent shrimp tacos and tequila cocktails, and the tables are large enough to fit everything you’ve ordered, which we hope includes the salted peewee potatoes with spicy mayo.
This Latin American spot is from the people behind Cómodo, and we’d like to think that after a big day of owning an Actually Good Hotel Restaurant in Manhattan, the owners come back to Brooklyn, have a seat in the string light-adorned backyard at Colonia Verde, and breathe a deep sigh of contentment.
That’s what this spot is for us too: a neighborhood oasis that’s always waiting, mezcal at the ready, for when you're done checking out every new wine bar in Williamsburg, or Italian restaurant in the West Village. You could spend an entire evening in Colonia Verde's backyard—or greenhouse, or cave-like rooms—without anyone saying anything except to ask if you’d like another round of spicy La Picosas (which you do).
Your uncle who needs a steak at every meal will find this place just as relaxing as your friends do, though they'll probably want to try all the dishes on the Brazilian and Mexican-influenced menu. (Get your uncle the picanha steak, served with farofa.) With such wide appeal, you and everyone else who forgot to make a res might encounter a two-hour wait on a Friday. But does it really matter? It’s Friday. Put your name down and go get a drink and some oysters at Petit Paulette.
Once you’re there, Colonia Verde is the kind of place where you’ll seriously ponder lingering until service is over, and then drinking wine with the person who made your crispy pork belly in salsa verde. About one Sunday a month you sort of can, when they throw Sunday Asado—essentially a barbecue party with guest chefs. But no matter when you drop in, you’ll leave a more joyful person, and it won’t be just because of the mezcal.
Food Rundown
Shrimp Tacos
This is a non-negotiable, and you should probably just go ahead and get more than one order. Shrimp, avocado, and refried beans are folded into a flour tortilla so soft that you will briefly wish you could become a shrimp and try out this tortilla swaddling for yourself.
photo credit: Heather Willensky
Crispy Pork Belly in Salsa Verde
A mountain of pickled onions atop crispy pork belly bits in a pool of bright salsa verde. A magnificent bite.
photo credit: Louise Palmberg
Salted Peewee Potatoes
After eating these, you might find yourself wishing other restaurants would just replace their french fries with salted peewee potatoes. Each potato is covered in a light dusting of salt, and dipped in a tangy spicy mayo that plays expertly with mezcal, of course.
photo credit: Charles Roussel
Pão De Queijo Burger
The cheesy pão de queijo bun on this burger puts all brioche and potato buns to shame, and the caramelized onions and cilantro pesto are similarly notable. We wouldn’t recommend just getting this, but if you’re here with a group you should order one to share. If your group isn't quite at the burger-sharing stage, you could skip and replace with shrimp tacos accordingly.
Picanha
This one goes out to your uncle, but you should steal a few bites too, and sprinkle each one with farofa and smoky salsa.
photo credit: Louise Palmberg
La Picosa
The best way we can describe this drink, which is made with serrano peppers and cucumber syrup, is that it tastes like a spicy spa. Like several of the cocktails here, it's mezcal-based. But this one includes tequila too.