One White Street is very, very good-looking. As far as the eye can see, there’s a luxe surface: marble, suede, fancy wood, glossy ceramic tile. But this two-part restaurant located in a Tribeca townhouse is more than good looks: the food is very impressive as well. On the upper floors, One White Street serves a reservations-only, six-course, $148 set menu, while the ground floor and outside are a la carte, and mostly left for walk-ins (they release some a la carte reservations for before 6pm and after 9:30). Most of the produce here comes from a single farm upstate, and outside the restaurant on Thursdays, you’ll find a farmers’ market selling whatever’s in season.
The place is run by a former chef de cuisine at Frenchie, the restaurant that has been on every list of Paris restaurants for the past decade, as well as the master sommelier who was in the documentary Somm and now also runs the wine shop Verve. We say all that to convey that this place is run by pros, and it shows. If you’re doing a downstairs walk-in, don’t miss the scallop skewers and the focaccia with onion jam.