Before this Chinatown restaurant space was Lalo, it was a one-room karaoke dive bar called Winnie’s, where, up until last year, they were still playing music on laser discs. And while it’s a shame if you never got to sing “Sweet Caroline” for the Winnie’s crowd after taking a flaming shot of Kahlua, you’ll still be lucky to go to its replacement. The chef behind El Rey runs the restaurant, and the result is a sort of a Mexican/Latin version of Dimes, but without the attitude. You’ll eat funky stuff like vegan chicharones and squid stuffed with chorizo and hibiscus, but the most straightforward dish is the best one here - carnitas with homemade flour tortillas. After a year where so many new restaurants felt exactly the same, Lalo is something that feels legitimately new.