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Denino’s isn’t fancy. It’s just a big, plain sit-down pizza spot on Staten Island, and when you stop by, there will probably be a bunch of kids in soccer uniforms shouting about things like video games or cartoons or whatever it is kids shout about nowadays. But the pizza is still exceptional. The crust is thin, the pizzas are the ideal size where you know you wouldn’t feel well if you ate a whole one, and the clam pie is the perfect beginners version for anyone who is skeptical of clam pies. You will leave having consumed several pitchers of domestic beer, and wishing Denino’s were closer to your house.

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