Vice City Pizza
West Kendall is known for the Kendall Ice Arena, excellent Latin American food, and now (thanks to Vice City) some of Miami’s best pizza. This pizzeria is in a plaza behind a Goodwill and across a Walmart. It’s a small place with about a dozen tables and a green penny-round tiled bar where you can watch the birth of delicious square pies from the oven. During peak hours, there’s usually a line out the door with takeout orders and folks waiting for a table, and it’s no surprise because these Detroit-style pizzas are magnificent.
photo credit: Cleveland Jennings
The best dishes here are edgy—not punk rock edgy—but pizzas that have crispy corners and appetizers (like the eggplant parmesan) that pass the Maillard test. All of Vice City's pizzas are made Detroit-style, with salty cheese that coats the crust and bubbles over, creating a little lip around the square pies that holds a variety of creative toppings.
Our only complaint is that the toppings are cut into big pieces, so you might get one kind of topping per slice. It’s an issue not as evident on single-topping pizzas like their pepperoni and hot honey, but it’s noticeable on the angry Hawaiian, where you might only get one chunk of pineapple per slice. Still, it’s a misdemeanor we forgive thanks to a crust that tastes like a delicious memory foam pillow—light, thick, buttery, and springy. We’re glad Vice City got its own place—it’s about time West Kendall got some pizza representation on the map.
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This fancy meatball duo is made with wagyu beef and duroc pork. They’re slightly spicy and aromatic, but the rich meat flavor is lost after being rolled up and baptized in a bowl of marinara and ricotta.
Roasted Eggplant Parmesan
Some people think eggplants are bitter and slimy. Maybe that’s because they’ve never tried Vice City Pizza’s tender eggplant parmesan. It’s so good you might accidentally hold onto the hot cast iron pan it’s served in while trying to scrape the lacy cheese caked onto its edges.
The mushroom puree on the Shroom Pizza isn’t really noticeable, and caramelized onions outnumber the oyster mushrooms. It’s a white pizza that also features parmesan, dollops of ricotta, and truffle honey for a sweet and salty combination that skews sweet.
Three little pigs—bacon, pepperoni, and sausage—reside on a cheesy crust with slivers of banana peppers for a vinegary touch. They’re tucked under a warm red sauce and drizzled with hot honey. It’s good enough to make you want to grow a beard and talk about how “the government is a greedy piglet that suckles on a taxpayer’s teet.”