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Review

Kat Hong

Kinkan

$$$$
Written by
Kat Hong

Outside the world of $400 omakases, it’s rare to find a sushi experience that truly surprises us. But that’s exactly what we discovered at Kinkan, a half-Japanese, half-Thai restaurant in Virgil Village that feels like an intimate dinner party with friends more than anything else. After running a successful pop-up throughout the pandemic (which was frequented by everyone from Hilary Duff and Jonah Hill to chef Mori from Morihiro in Atwater), chef Nan Yimcharoen launched Kinkan 2.0 in early October 2021 in a beautiful, open space on Virgil Avenue filled with mismatched wooden tables, dried flower bouquets hanging from the walls, and a full sushi bar.

The lunch omakase is cozy and conducted almost like a communal gathering: the entire bar is seated at once with ice-cold green tea before the chef passes out rounds of hotate scallop, ahi tuna that’s been marinating for 10 days, and uni that tastes a little funky (in a good way) to everyone simultaneously. It’s fun and casual, words we usually don’t use when dropping $150 on lunch. They also serve lunch a la carte and a 10-course Thai prix-fixe menu that we will definitely, definitely be checking out soon.

LA

Feature:

First Look At Kinkan: The All-New Brick-And-Mortar In Virgil Village

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