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Review

Magpie

££££
Written by

Magpie is the new Mayfair restaurant from the people behind casual fine dining spot Pidgin. There’s a pretty clear ‘concept’ here, which is that small plates all get brought around on dim sum-style trolleys. Even the cocktails come in mini-flasks that you pour yourself, and have ingredients like Szechuan oil or a piece of seaweed. It sounds like an aneurysm in restaurant form, but much of what we ate - like a sea trout crudo with yuzu and blueberries - was very tasty. There isn’t anything like it in London.

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