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Review

Gul And Sepoy is permanently closed.

Gul And Sepoy

££££
Written by

The people behind Gunpowder have yet another new restaurant, and this time it’s a place called Gul and Sepoy. After a detour to Himalayan food at their underwhelming spot Madame D, they’ve come back to their Indian roots and have set up a two-part small plate menu based on the class divides of old colonial India. Part one is Gul, based on the food of the royal courts, and part two is Sepoy, inspired by dishes eaten by the soldiers serving the courts. The food overall ranges from very good (like the tandoori seabream, from the Gul side), to nice enough. But again, the menu overall doesn’t have the same magic as Gunpowder’s. On the other hand, it’s definitely better than any Indian food that’s happening on the nearby Brick Lane, and it’s more interesting than Madame D, which is just across the street. Gul & Sepoy is just a few steps away from Gunpowder, and a pretty decent back-up plan for when you can’t get a table there.

Steven Joyce
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