Modern Indian restaurant Gunpowder is an Infatuation favourite, so it stands to reason that Madame D, the follow-up, should be brilliant as well. Sadly not. It’s hard to replicate something that feels so special, and while Madame D doesn’t attempt exactly the same thing, the end result is disappointing. The food at this tiny upstairs restaurant in Spitalfields specialises in the food of the Himalayas (think spicy noodles, bhel puri, and coriander fried chicken) that is occasionally very good, but for the most part lacks the spark and excitement that makes Gunpowder so exciting. Having said that, we do appreciate that with Madame D, the owners are trying something different - but we’re not sure it would be enough to tempt us upstairs for a plate of that fried chicken.