LDNReview
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Grasso
Included In
Grasso is like that friend who you worry about introducing to your other friends. The New York Italian-American spot in Soho does things that annoy you, occasionally makes you cringe, and can be hard to defend—but you always have a good time when you hang out together. There are definitely better pastas out there, but we can’t shake the memory of the outrageous XXL plates of penne alla vodka here. Because sometimes you don’t want what's right, you want what feels good—and eating at Grasso feels pretty great.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Grasso is family-run, but as you look around the massive 180-seater space around the corner from Tottenham Court Road station, you’ll realise it’s less the Weasleys knitting Christmas jumpers and more Beckham empire. As you arrive, several versions of yourself reflected in a chandelier greet you, and later, after fishbowl-sized Aperol spritzes, you’ll stumble upon the disco-themed toilets. Whether you find all the over-the-topness grating or end up performing an impromptu karaoke set is largely determined by a scientific formula involving your star sign and the amount of cocktails you’ve consumed. Personally, it warms our cold little London hearts.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
The main dining room is where you’ll have the most fun. Laid-back, smiley servers dispatch laminated, wipe-clean menus, and later, tactfully hang back while you have a mozzarella stick cheese pull moment. A couple getting cuddly over a plate of meatballs look like they could go full Lady and the Tramp at any moment. And a loud birthday party, ordering wine before they’ve even sat down, don’t get any side-eye. There is a strange offshoot room that is small and cold, lit by green LED strip lights. Sitting there feels like you’ve been cancelled. So ask for one of the booths by the kitchen instead, next to the adorable photos of the owners eating spaghetti in their nappies (when they were toddlers).
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
The comforting Italian-American dishes are the kind your mum might have made to cheer you up after a disastrous maths test. It's not perfect—the pomidori sauces are too sweet and the salads are 90% dressing and 10% lettuce. If you’re looking for exceptional Italian food, look away now. But if you want a fun, easygoing restaurant serving food that’ll fill you up and leave you more comforted than a warm, weighted blanket, go here.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Mozzarella Sticks
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Mom’s Spaghetti
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Penne Alla Vodka
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Lamb Ragù Rigatoni
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
The Big Caesar With Herb-Crusted Chicken
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Fried Zucchini
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
New New Yorker Pizza
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch