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Review

Circolo Popolare

££££
Written by

Circolo is from the same people as Gloria and just like its loud, proud, and Aperol-fuelled sister, this Italian trattoria is a restaurant to party in. It’s a Disney-ish take on the Italian riviera, with thousands of bottles of booze (yes, they’re real and unsecured) lining the walls, fake plants hanging, and enough chintzy crap to make an Antiques Roadshow superfan faint. The food is a backup dancer. But that doesn’t really matter, because the courgette flowers are crunchy, the lasagne tastes decent enough, the meringue pie is great, and you’re not really here to eat anyway.

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