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Review

Casa Fofó

££££
Written by

No style of food is quite as groomed as the tasting menu. It’s the Gillette of the restaurant world. There are foams and gels, tweezers for this, and drops of acid for that. Basically, there’s lots of sodding about. Unless you’re enthralled by the lineage of a single broad bean and the parentage of a peanut, this probably isn’t what you look for in a casual meal, but at Casa Fofo it feels different. That's because this Hackney neighbourhood restaurant is distinctly unpretentious. Yes, their £39 seven course menu changes daily, and yes, things will be poured into your bowl, and some dishes will not have the welcoming familiarity of, say, beans on toast, but it’s done in a way that feels soft rather than stiff. All of it makes for a very pleasant and at times very delicious meal - we’re looking at you oyster linguine and creamy pastry thing to finish. It’s best suited for a couple that likes to talk to each other, but doesn’t necessarily like to share.

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