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Review

Charlie McKay

Peg

££££
Written by
Charlie McKay

Peg is the third spot from the people behind P. Franco and Bright, and, just like those two, this wine bar and restaurant serves up superb wine and small plates. The aesthetic is a mood board entitled ‘peak Hackney’. The seating is (terrazzo) counter-only. The soundtrack is vinyl. The room is entirely monochrome (token plants and jazzy wine labels aside). While the colour comes from the thing that matters most: the plates and what’s on them. The menu is Japanese-inspired and is split between skewer items from the grill - all priced around £5 - and separate small plates. It’s meat off a stick for the most part. And it’s completely fantastic. Imagine a meatball on a skewer. There’s no way to doll that up: it’s a brown juicy ball on a stick. But just wait until you try it, because so much of Peg’s food, as with P. Franco and Bright, reads familiar but tastes like much more. Generally, that’s what these people do: create spaces that are more than just wine bars or restaurants. Peg is no different.

Tegen Hendel
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