CHIReview

photo credit: Sandy Noto

Somerset review image

Somerset

$$$$

1112 N. State Street, Chicago
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This restaurant is in the Viceroy Hotel in the Gold Coast, right in the middle of what’s unfortunately known as the “Viagra Triangle”—which should tell you everything you need to know about the area. Somerset fits right in, with its tall ceilings, art deco light fixtures (including a huge chandelier dominating the front room), and generally expensive feel. The nautical touches throughout make you feel a little like you’re at a yacht club, or otherwise water-adjacent.

As far as the food goes, Somerset's menu is hit-or-miss. Some things, like the wagyu tartare and the housemade bread with whipped ricotta and honey are great. But most dishes fall short. The lobster spring roll has a thick undercooked wrapper and comes with a wet ginger coleslaw that bleeds all over the plate. The salty chicken schnitzel is served with bland spaetzle and pickled squash that has no flavor except "acid", and vegetable sides like glazed carrots are overdone and flavorless. While not the worst hotel restaurant in the city, there are much better options in the neighborhood.

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