CHIReview
Included In
Restaurants are like people. Some of them like to do exactly what everyone else is doing, and some of them like to do their own thing. S.K.Y. falls into the second category. It’s not particularly easy to sum up, but it doesn’t need to be. The main thing you need to know is that you definitely want to be eating the food here.
This Pilsen spot doesn’t have a theme that smacks you in the face as soon as you walk in. You won’t feel like you’ve seen the same concept five times before - and the dishes aren’t easily categorized. While the menu has diverse global inspirations (and incorporates a lot of Asian elements in particular), it’s not a consistent mashup of any two or three specific types of food. It draws on lots of different traditions - from French to Korean - and the integration of flavors and techniques feels totally seamless.
photo credit: Sandy Noto
The food here looks and tastes delicious. There’s cornbread in madeleine form, and lobster dumplings served in a light and rich lemongrass broth. There’s a roasted root salad, with parsnips and carrots in a raisin vinaigrette, that tastes like it’s sponsored by the Midwest. There’s fried chicken with a fermented hot sauce, and salmon with a phyllo crust and an Indonesian sambal sauce. Everything works, and nothing feels unnecessary. The only dish we can’t completely get behind is the foie gras bibimbap, which has so much foie that it tastes overly rich. (On the other hand, it’s certainly a generous portion for the price.)
Cement walls with dramatic uplighting give the space an industrial feel, and the music is chill indie rock. The ambience is relaxed, making it good for either a weeknight date or a Saturday dinner with friends. You’ll feel a lot like you’re eating in someone’s cool basement, or hanging out at a low-key house party (maybe even one that’s too low-key - the hosts occasionally seem slightly bewildered, although the service otherwise is very good). If you’re not in the neighborhood, it’s an experience worth traveling for.
This place doesn’t seem too concerned with what its restaurant peers are doing, and that works in its favor. It’s serving thoughtful dishes that are pretty but not precious, drawn from a variety of different inspirations that come together in a way that feels natural. Like most talented people who focus on the things they care about and ignore the crowd, S.K.Y. isn’t trying to impress you. But it will anyway.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Cornbread Madelines
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Black Truffle Croquettes
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Hamachi Sashimi
Lobster Dumplings
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Root Salad
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Fried Chicken
photo credit: Sandy Noto