Eastern Standard in Kenmore Square feels like a throwback to a time when all special occasions took place in big, plush restaurants over shellfish and cocktails. Despite the marble bar and soaring ceiling, though, it isn’t actually that old and you won’t feel out of place if you’re not wearing a pinstripe suit. We like the bass with smoked roe, but you’ll be satisfied by just about everything here the next time you’re looking for hearty brasserie food.