PARReview
Pierre Sang
Eating here is like playing a game. The goal? To guess what you’ve just eaten. And there’s no menu: dishes get dropped off, and you’re left to savor and reflect on your own. Once you’ve sopped up all the sauce and placed your silverware back on the granite plaque for cutlery, someone will arrive to ask what you think you tasted. Perhaps you thought you ate tender veal, but it was really pork filet mingon. Those “cherries”? Actually, they’re beets! Same goes for that carrot purée—it’s butternut.
This type of experience isn’t for everyone, and you probably shouldn’t bring someone who’s a picky eater. Instead, show up with a date who’s down to experiment. The non-pretentious servers—and the namesake chef, a French-Korean and finalist on France’s Top Chef—just want you to enjoy what you’re eating, and maybe understand it a bit better.
The other location, located down the block, adheres to the same concept, but with a higher price tag for the six courses (€54 vs €44) because of its slightly more buttoned-up and “gastronomic” ethos. Expect similar flavor pairings (kimchi, soy, sesame, etc.) and French-style execution.
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