PARReview
You know a place is proper when the wait staff wears matching beige pants and white button-down blouses and the silverware gets its own handmade ceramic holder. But there’s nothing stuffy about this French restaurant that opened in December 2021 around the corner from the Louvre—and just won its first Michelin star. The inside feels very country-home-meets-contemporary-art-museum with exposed beams painted white, suspended decorative light fixtures, and white porcelain plates in the shape of bark. It’s tasting menu-only—three, five, or seven courses starting at 58€—with flavor pairings like crab served in an actual crab shell and wood-fired scallops smothered in a smokey turnip, annise, and butter sauce. Even the saffron and mango sorbet, which comes after the creamy sliver of truffle brillat-savarain cheese, but before the deconstructed yuzu millefeuille for dessert, will make you drop the shoulders and throw your head back. With only 26 seats, it’s an intimate space where you can spend the better part of an afternoon or evening.