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Review

Mokoloco

Written by

When much-loved Mokonuts opened in 2015, it was intended to be a low-key sandwich spot that also served good coffee. Somehow, it morphed into what it is today: a must-book, do-not-miss lunch place where the creamy labneh and miso-sesame cookies are the stuff of legend. So it’s no surprise the team reverted back to their original goal with their second venture, Mokoloco, just around the block on food-favorite Rue de Charonne. Here, they serve sandwiches like fried beef tongue katsu and tuna tartare in a lemon soy dressing. At night, the place turns into a small plates bar where they do five and seven-course mystery menus (for €35 and €47, respectively) plating reimagined Palestinian classics such as kubbeh grilled on charcoal.

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