When your waiter at Tobalá launches into a Planet Earth voice-over about Oaxaca’s annual chicatana ant harvest, try to pay attention. It might be hard, especially when the ants in question are part of a dish so delicious that you just want to go back to scooping it up with hot, fresh, purple corn tortillas. But the charmingly chatty service and obsession with all things Oaxacan are part of what make a meal at this pleasant, palo santo-scented restaurant in Riverdale memorable—beyond its killer cocktails, tacos, and flavorful larger plates, like duck smothered in mole negro. On weekends, every table and bar stool in the spacious, skylit room fills up with dates, groups of friends, and families, so reserve ahead for a leisurely brunch or dinner.