We could all be happier if we applied this Mexican restaurant’s maximalist approach to our own lives. Why make a habañero mango cocktail without torching a thick sprig of rosemary in it first? Why paint a patio muted pastel pink when a shade called “hot pink” exists? If there’s a vat of earthy mole negro in the kitchen, why not pour a pint of it onto a plate with chicken enchiladas or tender short rib? The portions of Oaxacan specialties at this Astoria spot are massive, and the mole and Patrón flow like tap water. This fun restaurant would be especially perfect for a group of friends, or a date who’s interested in splitting some gooey chori queso with warm corn tortillas.
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