Sailor

Dressed in nautical stripes and glossy navy paint, Sailor is a Fort Greene restaurant that refers to itself as a “neighborhood bistro.” And, while it’s technically in a neighborhood and serves European-influenced food that could be interpreted as “bistro cuisine,” that label seems purposefully modest.

At this roughly 10-table spot from the former chef of the Breslin and the team behind Joseph Leonard, you can sit near a flickering lamp and watch a server in a crisp blue apron carve a ginger cake on a kitchen island that looks like a 17th-century still life. The seafood-heavy menu is subtly inventive and infinitely comforting, and few things cost over $30—so if you want to treat this place as your neighborhood bistro, go for it. But even if you come with the most casual intentions, dinner will feel like a big night out.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

No matter what you order, there’s always a surprising twist—but this isn’t precious food. It’s food you want to eat. A piece of toast with a vaguely named “green sauce” arrives under a layer of garlicky herbs and a sprinkle of parm, and what sounds like a standard roasted chicken shows up meticulously seasoned under the skin.

Even when they’re doing their own thing, Sailor’s dishes taste like classics. You take a bite of your mussel toast served like a deconstructed bouillabaisse, or smoked pork shoulder that falls apart if you breathe too hard in its direction, and think, “Ah yes, a perfect bistro staple.” Although good luck finding either at any other New York City bistro.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

The dishware is plain, the plating isn’t fussy, and the words on the menu tend to undersell whatever you’re about to consume, but don't let those ploys confuse you. Sailor is a singular place. If it’s aiming for best neighborhood bistro in NYC, sure, fine—it already has a clear shot at the title. This is, however, destination dining. If you've had long month, and feel like you’ve been lost at sea, stop by for a deeply satisfying meal. 

Food Rundown

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Smoked Arctic Char Pâté

Start your meal at Sailor with a few seafood small plates. Cold, creamy, and topped with a pinch of pastrami-spiced crumble, the pâté is a simple crowd-pleaser.

Housemade Brandade

If there’s a superior brandade in New York City, bring it to our attention. For now, this one holds the top spot. The warm mix of salt cod and potatoes has the texture of silky hummus, topped with fresh herbs that cut through the fishy flavor.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Mussel Toast

More mussel than toast, this is another necessary starter. The mussels come piled on a piece of bread with a thick layer of aioli, and the whole thing is crunchy, juicy, and delicious.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Smoked Pork Shoulder

As a nautical-themed restaurant, we assumed that Sailor would spend most of its effort on seafood. So what is this doing on the menu? And why is it one of the best things here? The pork shoulder is as tender as meat can get without becoming a spread, and it has an intense, BBQ-like smoky flavor. Dunk each piece in the rich jus on the side. There are also a few olives, we assume, for decorative reasons.

Roasted Chicken

The entree we order the most, Sailor's roast chicken tastes like butter, in large part because it's coated with the stuff. The bird is moist and well-seasoned, and, with some crunchy parm-accented potatoes on the side, it makes for a substantial meal. If you come with a friend, have a few small plates, and split the chicken, you should be just fine.

Roasted Cod In A Soup

If you want a seafood main, go for this big chunk of roasted cod sitting in a thick soup with notes of onion and citrus. It’s an ideal rainy day food.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Profiteroles

Other desserts may sound tempting, but always end with the profiteroles, which arrive dripping in a salty caramel sauce.