Does it get exhausting being M&S? Yes, almost definitely. For a place that’s as casual as your average coffee shop, this Ridgewood operation is surprisingly ambitious. Starting at 7am, you can stop by for some salchipapas, huevos pericos, or chocolate chip pancakes. Later in the day, you can pop into the cafeteria-like space for guatita, rotisserie chicken, and other Ecuadorian classics. The bandeja montañera—with its chorizo, steak, and crispy chicharron—is perfect for when you need a filling platter, but no matter what you order, be sure to supplement it with one or two of the hundred or so pastries you’ll see on display. If you have trouble picking, go for the turnover filled with warm guava.