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NYC

Review

Adam Friedlander

Le Baobab Gouygui

Written by
Adam Friedlander

On a recent visit to the takeout window inside Le Baobab Gouygui, the cashier patiently listened to us list off lamb and fish in okra-thickened palm oil sauce, fish balls stewed in tomato sauce, and plenty of other dishes, before eventually letting us know that they only had three options available at that time. After carrying those dishes two blocks away to Morningside Park, we quickly realized there would’ve been no wrong way to go about ordering. Despite being stewed with enough vegetables to make you forget you’re eating a massive plate of oil and rice, the fish in the thieboudienne has skin so salty and crispy it tastes like fried chicken skins, and the tender chicken yassa is smothered in lemony, onion-heavy sauce. The one dish that you need to prioritize, though, is lamb mafe, which has a ton of peanut butter flavor, along with the intense gaminess of a rare lamb chop.

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