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You know that feeling you would get when you were a kid and your parents brought you out to a “nice” restaurant? The kind of place that would require your sweater with rhinestones on it, or your khakis with the front pleat? That’s a little how we felt walking into King, a new restaurant on the Soho/”South Village” border. It definitely feels happening - but in a very grown-up way: white tablecloths, attractive but understated decor, and a daily-changing menu of French and Italian-inspired dishes (including, on our last visit, a $70 truffle pasta).

Besides the feeling that we had graduated to the adult’s table, the food we’ve tried here is very, very good, particularly the steak. One word of caution: they do run out of food (on an already very short menu) - get an earlier reservation if you can.

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