NYCReview
photo credit: Nigel Young, Foster + Partners
Four Twenty Five
If you don't want to stray too far from your Midtown co-op, you can get a sampling of the world at Four Twenty Five. Shiso, sauerkraut, aji amarillo—in true Jean-Georges fashion, the place does it all. And yet, polished as it is, it’s still kind of boring.
In a bi-level space with a ground-floor lounge and a carpeted mezzanine up a flight of stairs, this restaurant serves a globally inspired menu built on the usual scaffolding of French and Italian. On paper, it’s interesting. In reality, it’s pleasant, but more of the same.
On the ground floor, one must stare at the 24-foot painting.photo credit: Nigel Young, Foster + Partners
The longest sheer curtains in the world.photo credit: Nigel Young, Foster + Partners
Should you need an upscale venue where you can touch base with the other members of your charity board, we can think of no better option. The leek-swirled foie gras with gingerbread-like madeleines might cause some disruptive oohs and aahs, but the fluke tartare, spaghetti with uni, and sesame-crusted scallops will neither spoil nor intrude on your conversation.
Peppy servers in burgundy suits, a constellation of dangling lights, and a glass-enclosed kitchen provide some extra flavor, but there’s still a hard cap on how stimulated you’ll be. Depending on what you’re looking for, maybe that’s a good thing. Four Twenty Five is a tame, fancy place for tame, fancy dinners. Boring, yes, but perfectly so.
Food Rundown
Fluke Tartare
Sliced Kampachi
photo credit: Bryan Kim
Foie Gras Terrine
Organic Chicken Breast In Black Truffle Crumbs
Roasted Scottish Cod
photo credit: Bryan Kim