Cenadou

This new French spot in a rebuilt farmhouse bordering Connecticut is a good place to watch chefs stir mushrooms into risotto just so, and maybe have a Martha Stewart sighting. Dishes walk the fine line of rich ingredients and moderate-sized plates that’ll leave you satisfied but not stuffed, though if you want splurge in both price and portion, there’s a grilled wagyu with bone marrow for two that you’ll see on tables across the dining room.