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LA

Review

Jakob Layman

The Manufactory

$$$$
Jakob Layman

Ask anyone who’s spent time in San Francisco about food and inevitably they’ll mention Tartine, a place that started out as a bakery making incredible croissants, before opening a huge, all-day operation known for everything from salads that look nice in photos to buffalo milk ice cream. And now, Tartine has moved into LA with a massive multi-part complex at the Row called The Manufactory. There’s a pastry window, a bar where you can have a slice of pizza and drink wine that you pay for by the inch, a soon-to-open market, and the current main event, Tartine Bianco. Taking up a big hunk of the Manufactory space, it’s got a large, slightly all-over-the-place menu that mostly works. Unsurprisingly, there’s a lot of bread involved, like Danish smørrebrød (the smoked trout is a highlight) and thicker toasts with toppings like chicken liver or beef tartare. While you should certainly order a bunch of that stuff, save room for the entrees too - especially the fantastic, crispy whole “hot” fish.

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