Sometimes a place just can’t get out of its own way.
Gjusta, the deli-bakery-bring-your-own-kaftan-to-coffee-concept from the team behind Venice’s indelible Gjelina, opened to feverish crowds. That hasn’t changed. And it shouldn’t! Its non-descript locale and industrial outfitting is the stuff Venice residents lose their custom-made marbles over. Also, the food is good. Really, really good.
So what’s the problem?
Walking into a deli with a counter the size of an AAU basketball court is admittedly thrilling, but ultimately, it serves no one. Literally. Take a few laps up and down the court, and you will find little in the way of how this whole place is actually supposed to work. Do you take a number? Wave someone down? Slip a little side boob? Maybe any of those. But with 50 other local YouTube employees attempting to do the exact same thing as you, Gjusta quickly disintegrates into a trust fund baby swap meet not seen since the VIP camp section at Coachella.
But some way or another you get your order placed and you’re excited. Now what the f*ck do you do? Well, don’t sit because you can’t. Despite a wrap-around coffee bar built perfectly for not standing, chairs don’t exist inside. Anywhere. That’s a last year thing.
Gjusta did finally do something with that side patio and spots to sit do exist, but it comes at the price of waiting all afternoon to secure one. Gjusta’s seat discrimination policy can certainly be overlooked, but if there’s anything more awkward than a group of confused strangers leaning against walls and eating cauliflower salad on plates, we don’t know it. Now is that cauliflower salad you’re eating delicious? You bet. And so is the vast majority of what else’s behind that counter.
Just a shame they haven’t figured out the rest yet.
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