The newest member of LA’s growing club of very expensive omakase spots, Sushi Yamamoto is hidden on the second floor of Two Rodeo plaza in Beverly Hills (sushi geeks might know it as the former home of Urasawa). Dinner at this eight-seat counter costs $390 per person—gulp—but if blowing that on amazing sushi sounds not totally unreasonable, you’re in the right place. The young chef running the show here worked at Matsuhisa and Nobu Tokyo, and he brings a loose, fun energy that perks up what might otherwise be a too-serious meal. A simple surf clam in dashi is enough to make your knees wobble, while flashier dishes like uni-caviar tempura and hay-smoked wagyu explode with flavor. Nigiri is fine-tuned to enhance the natural sweetness of seafood, but dessert is perfectly not-too-sweet: a wedge of hollowed-out Japanese melon filled with extra creamy melon ice cream.