8.8
LA

Majordomo

Perfect For: Big Groups Impressing Out of Towners
PHOTOS: Jakob Layman

Living in a city like Los Angeles, it’s easy to get jaded. You don’t really care that you just saw Timothee Chalamet buying Gatorade at Gelson’s, or that it’s been sunny for 100 days straight. The beach is 20 minutes from your apartment and you haven’t been since 2015. And when it comes to restaurants, you think you’ve pretty much seen it all by now. Chances are, the space is going to be an old warehouse in a somewhat bizarre location, and you’re going to eat a lot of food that the waitstaff will proudly tell you takes full advantage of California’s bountiful produce. We get it, you’re an impressive restaurant in Los Angeles.

If all that sounds familiar to you, you might walk into Majordomo feeling pretty jaded. Everything at their large Chinatown space, at least at first glance, is something you’ve seen before - cement everything, in-season vegetables everywhere, and big cuts of meat you can share with your friends. But then you start eating the food, and for the first time in a while, your dark, charcoaled heart is genuinely surprised.

Majordomo is the first LA restaurant from the guy behind the NYC-born Momofuku empire, and while the food can generally be categorized as modern Korean, Majordomo is not a Korean restaurant. It’s a restaurant where you go to eat food you can’t get anywhere else.

Jakob Layman

Majordomo’s menu, on paper, isn’t going to make your brain melt - the menu is broken up into fairly standard sections of appetizers, vegetables, noodles, and meats. It’s when you start looking more closely that you see the true variety of food here. If there’s another restaurant in LA where you can eat bing (Chinese flatbread) with smoked roe, deep-fried stuffed peppers, the freshest mushrooms you’ve ever had in your life, macaroni pasta with black truffles, and a giant spicy pork shoulder that feeds six people in one sitting, we don’t know it. And that’s the difference at Majordomo - it’s not the individual plates that are going to necessarily surprise you. It’s the cumulative effect of the whole meal. The menu is full of things that should have no business being on your table together, but you’ll walk out thinking it’s the only way they should ever be served.

Now to address the elephant in the room - how one actually gets into this place. If you’ve given up sitting at your computer every day at 10am clicking refresh until your eyes bleed, we don’t blame you. Here’s what you do: Walk-in. Get to Chinatown as early as you can and put your name down. They will seat you at some point, and you can drink at Apotheke around the corner in the meantime.

You might even see Timothee Chalamet there. Not that you care.

Food Rundown

Spicy Lamb With Bing

Majordomo gives you several different options to accompany your bing (Chinese flatbread), and if you’re only going to order one, it’s the spicy lamb. It’s rich, has a legitimate kick to it, and is one of our favorite things on the whole menu. Also, the bing itself is excellent.

Jakob Layman
Eggs & Smoked Roe

Winning the Alice In Wonderland Award for food that looks like it possesses magical powers, the eggs and smoked roe aren’t just visually appealing - they’re delicious too. Both on their own and with the bing.

Jakob Layman
Stuffed Peppers

These are basically tempura-fried peppers stuffed with sausage, and you need to get them. Maybe two of them. Ok, three.

Marinated Mushrooms

This dish looks like it would taste like any other bowl of vegetables, but in reality, it’s one you’re going to remember. Mixed in with pistachios, radishes, and something called mustard frill, this dish is simple, but fantastic.

Jakob Layman
Macaroni & Chickpea With Black Truffles

It comes out of nowhere, but this pasta might be the best-tasting dish on the menu. The heavy-handed use of black truffles is a bit much at first, but when something tastes this good, no one is complaining.

Jakob Layman
Spicy Bo Ssam

There’s no denying that the $150 price tag on this stings, but the good news is that it’s absolutely gigantic and feeds six adults. More importantly, it’s incredible. It comes served in a giant pot and is so tender that all you need to cut it is a pair of ice tongs. Plus, there’s plenty of banchan to go along with it.

Jakob Layman
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