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Review

Wine N Rind

££££

Imagine that the sandwich was never invented. We know, we know, it’s a cruel thought experiment. But expunge your life of crustless Billy Bear Hovis memories and early 20s spent surviving solely on shoving anything remotely edible between bread, toasting it, and declaring it a meal. Now picture someone very clever sticking some certified Nice Stuff between bread circa 2021. They call this hot new thing, The Sandwich. People declare it ‘genius’, TikTok implodes, and at least 80,000 words are written for the Guardian about whether it should be pronounced ‘sarrnwich’ or ‘sand-wich’. Imagine. Or, alternatively, go to Wine N Rind and eat a sandwich that’s so good and so clever, that you feel like maybe you’ve never really had a proper sandwich before.

This little stall inside Tottenham’s Holcombe market is predictably all about wine and cheese. Open from Wednesday to Saturday, you’ll usually find the owner, Holly Chaves, carefully slicing sourdough and stocking up the ‘Mega Fridge’. Yes, that’s right, the Mega Fridge. It’s exactly what your boujie little heart wants it to be - a chunky open fridge packed full of locally-made kimchi, Irish black butter, and hefty blocks of comté. Wine N Rind is first and foremost a cheesemongers that you can hit up for everything you could possibly need for that sophisticated cheese night you’ve been meaning to host for the past four years, but it’s their short menu of quickfire carb-heavy items that make this place an essential pilgrimage for sandwich lovers everywhere.

Aleksandra Boruch

Although we’re partial to a Joey Tribbiani eat-your-heart-out sub packed full of the remnants of 14 animals and half a jar of pickles, the sandwiches here are more curated and creative. We’re talking olive-loaded pissaladière-inspired toasties, Cobble Lane Cured nduja borek baps, and a burrata deli-style sandwich that balances out all that rich creaminess with a sharp slap of chilli. There’s even a massive quattro formaggi situation which we lovingly think of as the Franken-Toastie - four toasties combined into one giant toastie, four different fillings, and four very good reasons to make your way to Tottenham right now. Whether you choose to grab their OG cacio e pepe toastie and be on your way or commandeer one of their three al fresco tables so you can have a quiet thoughtful moment alone with your brie brûlée crumpet is entirely up to you, but if it’s not pissing it down we’d absolutely recommend the latter. Because these are the kind of sandwiches that deserve respect, adoration, and - why the fuck not - the label of sandwich genius.

Food Rundown

The food menu at Wine N Rind changes regularly depending on what’s in season but here’s an idea of what you can expect.

Aleksandra Boruch
Cacio E Pepe Toastie

We see your Marmite pastas, bolognese crisps, and peanut butter burgers, and raise you this cheesy remix for the ages. A hot pressed sourdough take on the classic Roman pasta dish that features an eye watering dose of cracked black pepper with a medley of pecorino and quality mozzarella. Deeply, deeply satisfying. Oh, and FYI, you can also get it gluten-free.

Brie and Black Truffle Toastie

Before we launch into our famed Ted Talk - Stop Putting Pointless Truffle In Everything, Please - we’ll confess that this truffle number is a rare case where the truffle truly does add so much to this toastie. The combo of the creamy, milky brie with the smack of musky truffle flavours is wildly indulgent. One for any human being who is having a rubbish day.

Aleksandra Boruch
Burrata, Chilli, and Basil Focaccia

Less of a sandwich and more of a one-person mission to test the maneuverability of your own jaw. A prime example of Wine N Rind’s ability to let the cheese do all the talking, whilst giving it some supremely talented back-up singers in the form of chilli and basil.

Sausage Roll

Put some quality terrine in some flaky pastry and you’ve got yourself a winning sausage roll. Who knew?

Heidi Lauth Beasley
Brie Brûlée Crumpet

God bless Wine N Rind for giving the crumpet sex appeal. A sweet, creamy treat that is arguably one of the best ways you can spend four quid in this great city. If the nduja and honey crumpet is also on the menu then take it as a sign, direct from some lovely cheese deity, to order that too.

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