CHIReview
Included In
You might be tempted not to take Sushi-san seriously at first. On the surface, it seems like a somewhat gimmicky spot - there’s club-level-loud hip hop music playing, there’s a section on the menu called “nigiri bombs,” and the bathroom sign is a poop emoji. Underneath the over-the-top exterior, though, this River North Japanese restaurant is serving seriously great food.
First of all, the sushi here is fresh and expertly prepared. You can order sashimi, nigiri, and rolls a la carte, but the best thing to do is get one of the San-Sets, which range in price from $29-98 and are designed for sharing. Each one has a different assortment of sushi - for example, the “Mr. Maguro” has ten pieces of tuna sashimi and nigiri plus a tuna roll, and the “Megatron” has 24 varieties of sashimi and nigiri and two rolls.
photo credit: Sandy Noto
The non-sushi dishes here are also tasty and well-executed - even the unfortunately named “nigiri bombs,” which are Japanese fusion appetizers. There’s an octopus taco from this section of the menu that has a lot going on (the octopus is dressed with a spicy mayo, topped with tobiko, and served in a shell made from fried nori), but balances out really well. And from the “sizzling rice” menu category, the pork katsu, involving fried pork nuggets with rice, egg, and a dashi broth that’s drizzled tableside, is equally delicious.
The fact that Sushi-san’s food is so good makes sense - after all, it’s from the same group that owns Naoki, one of the best sushi restaurants in Chicago. Still, while Sushi-san is far more affordable than Naoki, it’s not for everyone. This is a very loud restaurant, especially if you’re in sitting in the communal section or at the sushi bar, which together make up the majority of the space. (If you want something quieter, you should request one of the large wooden booths in the back of the restaurant.) And you might not want to have a business dinner in a place where your client needs to find the poop emoji to locate the bathroom. But if you come here with the right crowd (anyone who appreciates a bit of irreverence) at the right time (when you want to have an upbeat night, and maybe go out afterwards), you’ll have a very enjoyable meal.
It’s exciting when something turns out to be more than it seems - that’s why our superheroes have normal alter egos, and sneakers that turned into roller skates were a thing. Sushi-san looks from the outside like a trendy restaurant that’s trying really hard to be cool, but is in fact an excellent sushi spot that’s more than worth your time.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Tako Taco
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Shrimp Toast
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Toro Nest
Shrimp Tempura
Sushi Rolls
photo credit: Sandy Noto
San-Sets
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Pork Katsu
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Spicy Kalbi Skewer
photo credit: Sandy Noto