If you want the best polenta and meatballs in the state, go on a short drive outside the city to Mike’s. It’s a cash-only, cafeteria-style spot inside a Veteran of Foreign Wars outpost where you’ll probably hear lots of tales about “the old days” and a cacophony of Rhode Island accents. You might also make a few friends who’ll give you more tips on what to do while you’re in town (and maybe even tell you where the non-touristy beaches are). But the best part about Mike’s is the polenta: a custardy, creamy square topped with gravy (a.k.a red sauce) and a big meatball (or Italian sausage, if you prefer). The fried smelts with pickled peppers are also worth ordering.

photo credit: Grace Kelly