Parcelles

It’s hard to make a long midweek lunch feel cheeky in a city where even working stiffs call their lunch break the “twelve to two.” But Parcelles is where to give it a go. Mismatched ceramics and white tablecloths add sophistication to the vintage tiled floors and wraparound bar—call it a bistro that got Botox. The glow-up translates to the daily-changing menu, which nudges traditional flavors into fine dining territory, like fish tartare with ponzu vinaigrette and a pig’s head terrine that somehow feels fancy, with its delicate ribbons of white fat and homemade pickle garnish. Service is friendly by Parisian standards, which seals the deal on making this the place to take the rest of the day off (you were gonna do it anyway), and fuel up with a second bottle from the 1,000 on the wine list before doing major damage at the Marais boutiques nearby.