Chez Marius

Mounted boar heads and a seething taxidermied fox stare you down as you sip a natty glass—it was chosen by the waiter who’s a walking line list and just set down a marrow bone heaped with steak tartare. Are you at a wine bar? An osteria? A bistro? A fever dream? Chez Marius keeps you guessing, and that’s part of the fun. Tables almost buckle beneath the organized chaos of the meat-heavy Italian- and Asian-influenced small plates shared by groups of mostly locals. (Rehearse your “Je prendrai comme eux,” or “I’ll have what they're having,” in advance.) The housemade pasta is always excellent like the tagliolini coated in broccoli rabe sauce and generously dusted with ricotta salata, and the veal’s brain served in a pho-inspired broth heaped with fresh herbs is a must. The menu changes daily, so get ready to become a regular.