Localino

Resist the smell of buckwheat crepes wafting from Briezh down the block—you’re here to eat pasta at Localino, an Italian restaurant in Saint-Germain-des-Prés that functions as a one-way ticket to Rome by way of metro lines 4 and 10. Plop into one of the plush chairs at the countertop facing the open kitchen for heaping bowls of veal ragout macaroni or fusilloni in a simple red sauce, and save some room for the tiramisu. If you come during lunch, take advantage of the three-course prix fixe that’s just $28.